Winter Skin Changes - is it a Thing?
New skin complaints can rear their ugly, irritating heads in the winter. I often get asked by clients (or anyone really), why their skin feels dry and irritated, they have new unexplained rashes, or why the products they have been using on their skin all year suddenly feel like they have been mixed with chilli flakes!! And the answer is often simply ‘winter’.
We are regularly bombarded by advertisements, or ‘experts’ on social media advising us to change up our daily skincare routine in the winter to protect our skin and prevent dry and irritated conditions. So the question is, is this just a sales ploy with the sole purpose of convincing you to part with more of your hard earned cash, or is there something in it? Well. . . I'm sorry to say it, but probably both.
So let us get into it. . . how does winter affect our skin?
To achieve a moisturised appearance and feel to our skin, there needs to be a level of water content within its layers, as well as an intact skin barrier function. Let me explain. . . The world-facing layer of the skin is called the stratum corneum, which is made up of flattened older skin cells (hate saying dead skin cells) held together by proteins and lipids. It’s function is to keep the bad stuff out (microorganisms and allergens), and keep the good stuff in (water) i.e. prevent what is known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Although we have natural moisturising factors within the skin, the moisture content is greatly affected by our surrounding environment.
Studies show that during cold months the level of humidity in the air significantly decreases, and with the added dry air conditions associated with central heating the moisture available to our skin is decreased. It is these factors that impair the structure of the stratum corneum causing reduced hydration in the skin, a decrease in skin elasticity and an increase in TEWL. The impact this has on the skin is increased dry/flakiness, redness, itching, irritation, and a tight dehydrated feeling, and in some cases eczema or dermatitis.
So what can we do to help?
There are a number of ways to aid the skin during these colder months.
Wash with lukewarm water or cold water - I know, I know. . . There is nothing better than jumping in a hot shower or bath to thaw out after braving the freezing outside world. . . BUT. . . Hot water strips the natural oils in our skin, which in turn compromises our barrier function, resulting in further moisture loss and irritation.
Avoid harsh soaps - they will only dry the skin further.
Moisturise - Now not all moisturisers are equal, and you may cry “but I moisturise every day”, but as we have now learnt, what may be a perfect moisturiser in the summer months is just not cutting it in January. There are different types of moisturiser, as follows, with the main purpose being to maintain barrier function and to reduce/maintain water content.
Humectants - attract moisture from the surrounding environment and the deeper layers of the skin and include ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, sorbitol and hyaluronic acid.
Occlusives - these trap in moisture and can be used over a humectant. For oily skin types, it may be preferred to use at night. Ingredients include petrolatum, silicone and lanolin.
Emollients - usually contain water (a humectant) and oil (an occlusive) with an emulsifier to enable them to mix, they are often lighter than an occlusive and therefore better suited for oilier skin types.
Air humidifiers - can also be used if your skin is particularly sensitive to dry air conditions.
Some people sail through the winter months without ever having to change a single aspect of their daily skincare routine, however others have completely different seasonal routines. . . Which are you?